A jaunt across Mudumalai - Trip Report

Our quick, packed trip to Masinagudi and Ooty yielded few lifers, but it gave us plenty of top-quality sightings

We stood at the junction of two worlds in Bangalore City Railway station. The arched stone buildings on Platform 6 were relics of a distant past and across the tracks were the eye-catching coaches of a new-look Shatabdi Express. Arun, Beej and I were headed to Mysore where Sandy was waiting to join us for our trip to Mudumalai, also his last birding trip from his base in Mysore, which he was to leave in two weeks. Sahastra, away in Uttar Pradesh, joined us occasionally in thoughts and conversation.

The long sighting of the Changeable Hawk Eagle was a highlight of our safari

We arrived at Mysore at 3:45 AM and were whisked away in Sandy’s car towards Bandipur. We entered just after the gates opened at 6 AM and were pained to see the noise generated by the trucks plying through the park. Needless to say, the disturbed environment ensured a drive devoid of any sightings save a few chitals inside Bandipur. 

A misty morning at Masinagudi

At Theppekadu, Mudumalai, we embarked on our first safari close to 7:30 AM. As we entered the safari we found a Sambhar lazing in the morning sun; it bolted at the sight of multiple telephoto lenses focused on it. Meandering through the serpentine safari tracks we chanced upon Chitals gilded by the morning sun. Arun and Beej directed our attention to Chitals in the velvet phase of their antlers. Chitals continued to hog the frame for most of the safari that ended with a cameo by a Indian Peacock sunning itself on the trunk of a dead tree.

Indian Peafowl

A baby langur learning to leap

Wanting more we headed out on our second safari, which took us through repulsive patches of lantana shrubs to begin with – not surprisingly, we saw nothing but a Hoopoe (Upupa epops). We started seeing more life as we left the lantana behind; first we came across a troop of frolicking Tufted Gray Langurs (Semnopithecus priam), a pair in the troop was indulging in games of passion. We watched like voyeurs as the langurs went about their pleasures unperturbed.

Hoopoe

Excuse us for intruding into their private life

Our next sighting on the safari was a dress circle view to a performance by the Changeable Hawk Eagle (Nisaetus cirrhatus). We found the eagle on a ground-level perch right in the middle of our safari path. It sat there sipping from a water puddle aloof of the low rumbling sounds from the engine of a gigantic body of metal headed its way. We proceeded gingerly towards the eagle, stopping frequently to observe. The bird held its ground until we were about 15 feet from it. Then it took flight and perched on a branch close to our safari van. An occasional flaunt of the crest, an occasional draw of the nictitating membrane were included in the performance. We moved on towards more chitals and eventually to our dwelling at Masinagudi. 

Changeable Hawk Eagle

Chital Stag with full antlers

At our place of stay we found company in an Intermediate Egret (Mesophoyx intermedia) and a Red Wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus), which had taken refuge in a pond nearby. We also found a pair of Small Minivets (Pericrocotus cinnamomeus), which we watched until our lunch was ready. With a satiated appetite and eyes hungry for more we left for the evening leg of our safari. 

Red Wattled Lapwing in flight

We started the evening safari from the Peacock Dormitory side and found a Forest Wagtail (Dendronanthus indicus), a Brown Fish Owl (Bubo zeylonensis), and a cow elephant with a male calf (whose tusks had just begun to appear). The calf made several mock charges – running around in circles, throwing up blades of grass and an occasional grunt. We left leaving the mammoth forest inhabitants to enjoy their peace. As we headed into the last safari of the day, we chanced upon Mr Dayanidhi Maran, the former union telecom minister, in the driver’s seat of an Innova parked by the Mudumalai-Bandipur road. We glanced and moved on; this sighting did not merit a checklist entry.

An agitated male calf

A Brown Fish Owl in its safe haven

After tea at the forest canteen we headed back to Masinagudi. The next morning we left early for Ooty via the Kalatty Ghat, hoping to spot Black-and-Orange Flycatchers and White-bellied Shortwings at the Botanical Gardens. On the way up, we spotted Rufous Treepies (Dendrocitta vagabunda), Brahminy Starlings (Sturnia pagodarum), Indian Peafowl (Pavo cristatus), Redvented Bulbuls (Pycnonotus cafer), Chestnut-headed Bee-Eaters (Merops leschenaulti), Grey Junglefowl (Gallus sonneratii) and Bonnet Macaques (Macaca radiata).

"Click me if you can," teased the Black and Orange Flycatcher

A very hungry caterpillar

After reaching the Botanical Gardens in Ooty we spotted the Black-and-Orange Flycatcher (Ficedula nigrorufa), which dared us to photograph it by frequently hopping around in a hedge. On the way out we spotted a Crested Goshawk (Accipiter trivirgatus) nibbling away at a kill. Oriental White Eyes (Zosterops palpebrosus), Pied Bushchats (Saxicola caprata), and a Pond Heron (Ardeola grayii) all flew in to have their names checked on our list. 

Eyes are white, lovely sight -- An Oriental White-eye

We finished with the Botanical Gardens and headed back to Masinagudi via Pykara. After a quick lunch we sped back to Mysore, making it just in time to catch our bus to Bangalore. With not even enough time to accord Sandy a sentimental farewell on his last birding trip ex-Mysore. But then again, we Ogres have tough layers. Sniff!

Trip List:

1. Grey Junglefowl (Gallus sonneratii) 
2. Indian Robin (Saxicoloides fulicatus) 
3. Laughing Dove (Stigmatopelia senegalensis)
4. Blue Rock Pigeon (Columba livia)
5. Malabar Parakeet (Psittacula columboides)
6. Rose-ringed Parakeet (Psittacula krameri)
7. Vernal Hanging Parrot (Loriculus vernalis)
8. Common Myna (Acridotheres tristis)
9. Jungle Myna (Acridotheres fuscus)
10. Brahminy Kite (Haliastur indus)
11. White-browed Bulbul (Pycnonotus luteolus)
12. Purple Sunbird (Nectarinia asiatica)
13. Purple-rumped Sunbird (Nectarinia zeylanica)
14. Oriental Magpie Robin (Merops leschenaulti) 
15. Intermediate Egret (Mesophoyx intermedia) 
16. Small Minivet (Merops leschenaulti) 
17. Red Wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus) 
18. Black and Orange Flycatcher (Ficedula nigrorufa) 
19. Rufous Treepie (Dendrocitta vagabunda) 
20. Ashy Drongo (Dicrurus leucophaeus) 
21. White Bellied Drongo (Dicrurus caerulenscens) 
22. Pond Heron (Ardeola grayii) 
23. Ashy Woodswallow (Artamus fuscus) 
24. Black Headed Ibis (Threskiornis melanocephalus) 
25. Changeable Hawk Eagle (Nisaetus cirrhatus) 
26. Crested Goshawk (Accipiter trivirgatus) 
27. Brown Fish Owl (Bubo zeylonensis) 
28. Blue Faced Malkoha (Phaenicophaeus viridirostris) 
29. Plum Headed Parakeet (Merops leschenaulti) 
30. White Throated Kingfisher (Halcyon smyrnensis) 
31. Chestnut Headed Bee-Eater (Merops leschenaulti) 
32. Hoopoe (Upupa epops) 
33. Indian Peafowl (Pavo cristatus)
34. Jungle Babbler (Turdoides striata) 
35. Forest Wagtail (Dendronanthus indicus) 
36. White Browed Wagtail (Motacilla maderaspatensis) 
37. Grey Wagtail (Motacilla cinerea) 
38. Brahminy Starling (Sturnia pagodarum) 
39. Red Whiskered Bulbul (Merops leschenaulti) 
40. Red Vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus cafer) 
41. Oriental White Eye (Zosterops palpebrosus) 
42. Pied Bushchat (Saxicola caprata) 
43. Spotted Dove (Streptopelia chinensis) 
44. Velvet Fronted Nuthatch (Sitta frontalis) 
45. Pale-billed Flowerpecker (Dicaeum erythrorhynchos)
46. Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch (Sitta cinnamoventris)
47. Hair-crested Drongo (Dicrurus hottentottus)
48. White-breasted Waterhen (Amaurornis phoenicurus)
49. Common Flameback (Dinopium javanense)
50. Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker (Dendrocopos nanus)
51. Common Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis)

Text: Anand Yegnaswami
Photos: Arun Menon and Anand Yegnaswami

The next time you ignore a drongo...

A birding lesson from the field: Don't pass up a drongo -- or any black bird with a forked tail


Towards the end of our Parambikulam tramway trek, as I dragged my weary feet past a tree on which was perched a dark bird with a telltale fork at the end of of its tail, Beej stopped and whispered, "What is it?"


"Drongo," I muttered dismissively, and walked on.

"Never rule out a bird unless you are sure," Beej growled and started looking at it through his field glasses. I raised my camera and lens, which weighed a ton in my tired arms, and fired a couple of shots desultorily. Realization sank in the same moment as Beej exclaimed, "Drongo-cuckoo!"

Nearly six months later in Dandeli, history repeated itself with a different set of characters. Arun walked past a black, fork-tailed bird on an open perch and I was quick to take note of it, thanks to the ticking off from Beej earlier. It turned out, as it were, to be a Drongo-Cuckoo.


And so, in order to ensure that no birder steps past a Drongo-Cuckoo again, here are some notes from the field:

Note that the black bird on the left shares a profile similar to the bird on the extreme right - each has an "unkempt" tuft of hair above its brow. Both are cuckoos. The bird in the centre, also with a forked tail, is a drongo. In this case, it's a Black Drongo - the white rictal spot is diagnostic.

1) Head: This bird's head was of an odd shape - with a ruffled, unkempt tuft reminiscent of the Common Hawk Cuckoo or Brainfever Bird, to which it is related. 


2) Bill: The beak is small and slender. All drongos have thick, strong bills that end in a slight downward curve. The Drongo-Cuckoo's bill juts out of its head like a nail out of a pin-cushion, with the sharp side outwards.

3) Tail: The tail, on closer examination, shows barred markings on the outer feathers. This might be harder to spot when you view the bird against the light or in well-lit trees. And, anyway, this is the last thing that you will notice.

Two forked tails, and each tells a different story. The barring on the Drongo-Cuckoo's tail sets it apart, while the Drongo has an unmarked fork, though the depth and definition of the fork can vary with the species

And once you are identify a Drongo-Cuckoo correctly, you will never mistake it for a drongo again!

So, which one do you think this is?

Maybe a closer look would help?


Text and photos: Sandeep Somasekharan
Also read: Encounter - Asian Drongo-Cuckoo

Encounter: Crimson Sunbird

A chance meeting with this charming sunbird kept our spirits high through the unpredictable Himalayan weather

In September 2010, on our way to the shrine of Madhyamaheshwar, we spent a night at the beautifully situated GMVN guest house at Ukhimath. It had been a year of catastrophic rains – an extremely heavy and extended monsoon had wreaked havoc on the roads and the landslides continued to pile up as more rain was forecast.

As we stood contemplating the ominous news that we had just received -- a part of the road leading to the starting point of our trek at the village of Uniana had been washed off -- we picked up a sunbird-like call from a bottle-brush tree beside the bungalow. 

Could it be the Green-tailed Sunbird? I had seen it at Chopta (2,900m) but this (at 1,130 m) seemed a tad low for either the Green-tailed or the Fire-tailed Sunbird. But it was also high for the ubiquitous Purple Sunbird that is so common in the plains. As we stepped out to scan the tree, we spied the unmistakable scarlet breast that glowed as if on fire in the rays of the morning sun. It was the Crimson Sunbird (Aethopyga siparaja).

Though this sunbird is fairly common (it is found in the Western Himalayas, Sahyadris, and a race occurs in the Nicobar Islands), this was my first sighting. The bird was quite restless and kept flitting from the bottle brush tree to a large dense-canopied tree nearby. It made these sorties while vocalizing all the time. 

The bird has a crimson patch on the mantle and a yellow spot just above the rump but from the view that we had, the scarlet breast and throat merged into a rather drab grey-olive belly. The tail is greenish and much longer than that of the Small Sunbird or Crimson-backed sunbird (Nectarinia minima) which also has a much less curved beak. The Crimson Sunbird is supposed to have a preference for red flowers which may have been the reason for its multiple sorties to the bottlebrush, a plant introduced from Australia. It’s also a favorite of the Purple Sunbird (Nectarinia asiatica).

Pretty soon the staff of the guest house got interested and took turns gazing at the beauty – which was present at Ukhimath year-round but which they had probably never looked at so closely. Beaming with pride at our joy of a lifer, they said: “Uttarakhand mein aapko bahut sundar pakshi dikhenge” (you will see very beautiful birds in Uttarakhand). We knew they were right and in the days ahead their lighthearted quip kept our hopes high as we we negotiated blocked roads, incessant rains and imminent landslides to bird persistently in the Himalaya.

The Crimson Sunbird is the unofficial national bird of Singapore.

Text: Sahastrarashmi

Photograph: Sandeep Somasekharan